|May 15||Fort Nelson to Whitehorse||608|
Morning: Fort Nelson
Awoke @ 5:45. Temp. -3C. Snow accumulating. Already daylight. Last night, went to sleep around 10:30--it was light then too…
Today we head for Whitehorse. Saw a dipper bird.
Lunch: Liard Hot Springs Lodge
This morning has been awe-some. Around every bend is a sight that reduces us to monosyllabic ejaculations. The snow last night is just enough to highlight each tree, ridge, geologic mark. The constant differing of texture arrests your attention so that diversions are unnecessary. We reached the Liard Hot Springs with a star-burst on the windshield. A passing truck on a gravel portion of the highway threw a rock that struck the lower right passenger side of the glass.
We got to the Hot Springs. You reach the springs by walking about 1/4 mile on a boardwalk through a marsh. The springs have a changing house. The water is 110 F. We soaked a bit, sitting in the steaming hot mineral water while birds frolicked on the shore and flurries fell. Then we had to get out and change back into our clothes. There was a couple there; the female was clad in a rather small bikini. It's interesting how arresting a person walking around in that little clothing can be. She was moderately attractive, but walking around like that drew much more attention.
After the springs, we went across the street to the Liard Springs Lodge. The hostess greeted us. She asked where we had come from. We said we were come from Fort Nelson. She asked were we going to Alaska. Yes. She said to be careful: a terrible accident had occurred down the road. A woman had rolled her car and a child was missing. The road past Watson's Creek was icy and bad. What struck me was her genuine concern. She wasn't just passing along info; she was full of care. "Be careful, you two." The soup was hot, and the bread homemade.
PM: Tilsin en route to Whitehorse
Just finished supper at the Yukon Motel in Tilsin. The day has been perfect. Around every bend is a new wonder. Every scene has new textures, new colors, new combinations. I feel like I've been in an art museum for too long. Brown, yellow, lime, forest, black, navy, gray, slate, white, purple, rust, red, peach, sea green, parchment, chestnut. After the springs, we stopped to get gas. The woman at the counter engaged me in conversation while Ted called home. She was very friendly. She said it was colder than normal. We bought some wonderful homemade cookies Later, when we were looking for supper, we pulled into Dawson Peaks Lodge. It was closed, but the owner greeted us. He asked if we were father and son. Ted said no, we were uncle and nephew. The man said he saw the resemblance. I smiled. After some words about when the place opened, the man said he was enjoying his work. He was raking. "I built this place myself and there's so much to do I don't get to just rake. I love to rake." He had a broad face with teeth that didn't seem to fit in his mouth.